FOOD & DRINKS
6 OF THE BEST (AND LESSER KNOWN) PASTRIES
FOOD & DRINKS
6 OF THE BEST (AND LESSER KNOWN) PASTRIES
If a coffee and a pastel de nata is your go-to morning order, then it is time to branch out and start exploring some of the more unusual yet wonderfully delicious treats at your local pastelaria. Many of Portugal’s cakes and pastries were created by nuns in their convents and have a special story
Laura Shea
1. Queijada
The queijada may look like a little deflated fairy cake, but you are in for a surprise when you bite into one! Made using requeijão, a whey cheese very similar to ricotta, these pastries are bubbly, bouncy and light whilst packing a punch of flavour. Wrapped in a thin crust, the fillings can be enjoyed plain, with flavours of sugar and cinnamon, or with orange (queijada de laranja) or coconut (queijada de coco). These delicacies were once so beloved that they could be used as currency in the Middle Ages and were happily taken as payment for many services.
2. Jesuitas
You will no doubt have seen these triangular shaped treats in various forms during your visit to a pastry shop or café. Sometimes topped with toasted nuts such as almonds, or sometimes with a thick egg and sugar frosting which is then set, the pastry is light and flaky. The story says that the Jesuitas take their shape from the priest’s habit, and were brought to Portugal by a Spanish chef who took inspiration from their distinct look. As with all convent sweets, the filling is a delicious egg yolk mix, as the whites were needed for starching fabrics and this avoided waste.
3. Patas de Veado
These cakey delights are ideal enjoyed with a fresh galao as although the sponge base is airy and light, the thick custard filling and topping makes these a big eat. Imagine a Swiss roll, but instead of jam you have a sweet and rich egg filling, then rolled in coconut and dusted with sugar and cinnamon. The origin of the ‘deer hoof’ cake is not fully known, but the egg filling comes from the historical convent surplus of yolks taken to bakers; passion for the Swiss roll obviously played a part in shaping this design!
4. Pastel de Feijao
If you were told that you were about to eat a bean curd tart and love it, many of us would be sceptical and probably try to swerve the offer. However, that would be a huge mistake! The pastel de feijao has a crisp pastry case, filled with a haricot bean jam. The beans are mixed with sugar, almonds and eggs to make a smooth and rich paste. Credited to a devout parishioner, Joaquina Rodrigues of Torres Vedras, the use of white beans to make delicious desserts dates back hundreds of years through the convents. Masters of using unwanted ingredients to create delectable treats and offerings, the nuns honed these recipes and passed the secrets down through the generations.
5. Pao de Rala
Born in the Convento de Santa Helena do Calvario in Evora, the nuns designed this dish to delight King Sebastian when he visited the area. What looks like a simple bread roll with some black olives scattered around, holds a wonderful surprise when cut into. The olives are shaped balls of marzipan that are rolled in coco powder, and the bread reveals a medley of sweet delight inside.
6. Bolo Xadrez
The Bolo Xadrez, or ‘chess cake’ features vanilla and chocolate squares of sponge held together with either a rich buttercream, a sweet egg cream or a guava jam. Obviously taking influence from the iconic Battenburg cake, designed in the 19th century to celebrate a royal wedding, bolo xadrez is unique as far as Portuguese pastries go due to the addition of chocolate – while the English version uses apricot jam as the cement and marzipan as the wrapper, the Portuguese version focuses on a thick layer of chocolate. If you haven’t tried this yet, it is ideal for an afternoon treat paired with a black coffee or a good cup of tea!


