Just moments beyond the railway line in Almancil, amidst a charming cluster of village houses, is a tiny roadside restaurant/bar that, without knowing what lay behind its doors, could be assumed to be a local dive bar. Unbeknownst to us until recently, it is, in fact, a place that acts as a testament to resilience, family, and culinary passion.

Run by a small family with a rich tapestry of cultural heritage, this has quickly become my favourite spot for deeply authentic Mexican food in Portugal – pulling me back to gastronomic explorations of the vibrant street food scene of Mexico City on our travels in 2019.

The story begins at Jalisco, where Mario (a Mexican national), and his wife Marynés, having emigrated from Venezuela in search of a more stable life, faced an emotional decision during the pandemic. As the world projected a catastrophic future, they made the difficult decision to leave Puerto Vallarta and come to Europe, seeking safety and a closer connection to Marynés’ Portuguese family. The pair chose the quietness of the Algarve, aiming to support their daughter, Dana, in returning to in-person school classes and her dream of studying art.

Back home in Mexico, Mario and Marynés ran two small but beloved local restaurants, delivering traditional Venezuelan food to the Mexican palate, adapting it with a signature spicy touch, and it seemed natural to continue their passion for home cooking in their new found surroundings. They bought a humble space, transforming it into their own casual spot where they could conjure central American flavours.

Today, 99’ Ninety Nine is a unique fusion of authentic Mexican flavours and Venezuelan cuisine. Having spent her life immersed in the culture of Puerto Vallarta, Marynés quickly learnt the art of Mexican cooking from family and friends. Her specialities include tacos de birria, enchiladas, tamales, empanadas, and quesadillas. Whilst so many others choose mass-produced variations of hard and soft shell tacos, what truly sets these guys apart from the rest are their freshly made corn tortillas, crafted from white, yellow, or blue corn flour, bringing an authentic flavour that cannot be replicated with Western alternatives.

This is no fast food joint as every-thing is prepared from scratch, so we pass time sipping homemade ‘Micheladas’, a popular Mexican beer cocktail, rarely made to perfection outside of its origin country. The ginormous cup arrives, dripping with condensation in the lunchtime heat and the cool salt rim is a tangy precursor to the flavours within – a rush of tart lime juice followed quickly by the effervescence of beer and a glug of clamato – a robust refresher to the spicy tacos we are inhaling.

The result is a humble totally unexpected restaurant and catering service (Mario and Marynés provide catering services bringing woodfire and Mexican flavours to your home!) that is not only a testament to their journey and resilience but also a celebration of their rich culinary heritage and home cooking.

99’ Ninety Nine has quickly become my most cherished spot in Almancil, where I can savour the perfect blend of Mexican and Venezuelan flavours, crafted with their love, kindness and passion.

99′ NINETY NINE, Estr. de Vale de Éguas 99 / T: 912 533 023 / W: facebook.com/99NinetyNineSportsBar