A recent winter weekend trip to the Algarve’s wild west coast to hike and feel reinvigorated by the beaches and we made our usual pilgrimage to Koyo Coffee in Aljezur. A treasure for speciality coffee lovers, the roastery and coffee shop is known for its dedication to seasonal beans, sustainable practices, and the sheer artistry of its founder, champion barista, Gyula Illés.

Walking into Koyo we are struck by the rich and unmistakable aroma of freshly roasted beans that fills the air – an instant pick-me-up. The space has a clean, functional vibe, yet is usually buzzing with energy even in the low season. Bags of coffee, carefully labelled with origins like Ethiopia and Colombia, line the shelves.

Gyula himself greets us warmly, his passion for coffee immediately evident. “Every cup of coffee tells a story,” he always says, as he ushers us toward the bar. Today we’ve come not just to sip but to submerge into the story of his own.

Gyula wastes no time diving into Koyo’s philosophy. The roastery sources only the finest seasonal coffees, selecting small batches of green beans from around the world. “We don’t do blends here,” Gyula explained. “Each coffee is unique, and we want to let it shine.” He pulls out a bag of their current offering, a

Guatemalan coffee with tasting notes of stone fruit and chocolate.

In the roasting room, he explains that the coffee’s journey starts at the plantation but it is the roaster’s job to preserve its character. We are fascinated, not just by the science but also by the deep respect Koyo has for the farmers behind the beans. Gyula considers it his mission to bridge the gap between the fields and our cups, ensuring that farmers’ hard work gets the recognition it deserves.

He tastes every batch and adjusts the profiles to highlight the coffee’s natural fruitiness, sweetness, and those pleasant bitter notes.

Back in the front room, it’s time to taste – one espresso and one filter brew, each made with a different coffee. The espresso is bold and fruity, with a syrupy sweetness, while the filter coffee is delicate and tea-like, with floral undertones that linger on the palate. “This is what I mean when I say coffee is fascinating,”

Gyula said. “The same bean, roasted and brewed differently, can be completely different.”

Gyula points out an important detail: Koyo’s commitment to sustainability. Not only is his coffee thoughtfully sourced, but his bags are 100% recyclable, carbon-neutral, and designed to keep the coffee as fresh as possible. It is inspiring to see a small business making such a big impact, through both its coffee and its commitment to the planet.

As we sip our espressos, Gyula shares his own story. Before moving to Aljezur in 2016, he had spent decades in the coffee industry, founding Hungary’s first barista academy, competing internationally, and training thousands of coffee professionals. Koyo is his way of sharing that joy with others.”
If you can’t get to Aljezur, you can still experience the magic through Koyo’s online shop.

koyospecialitycoffees.com