Loulé, community centred and away from the coast, has a charm and a character all its own. By day there are numerous attractions for a visitor with the Mercado Municipal de Loulé being the main draw on a Saturday morning. This neo-Moorish structure, complete with iconic red domes, is a bustling market with fresh local produce and artisan crafts on offer. Elsewhere, we have the Castelo de Loulé, a 13th century relic built over a Moorish fortress, a church, Igreja Matriz de São Clemente, from the same period, a stunning example of blue and white azulejos, and gilt ornamentation at the Igreja de São Lourenço. But we are not here to talk about churches and the like but rather what happens when the sun goes down and the lights of Loulé come on.

The historic Bairro Alto in Lisbon has a reputation for being a party place. The ancient, cobbled streets are lined with lively restaurants and bars attracting revellers from all over the world. On much smaller scale, here in Loulé we have on Rua 9 de Abril – a narrow street running parallel to the Mercado – the emergence of the Bairro Baixo scene. Which is actually the name of one of the bars, topped by Casa Noava, a boutique hotel of six contemporary rooms, with a roof terrace and a view of the old town.

The Bairro Baixo bar really only starts to come alive around 22h00, when they have some quality local DJs, like my friend Johnny, DJ Valente, playing a fun mix of crowd-pleasing tunes, Latin vibes and house classics. The party goes on until 02h00 on Fridays and Saturdays.

Directly opposite is O Postigo, which occupies the corner section of a historic building. This great bar is a hangout for bikers, whose full throaty engines can often be heard, growling down the narrow-cobbled street. A few years ago, the cobblestones outside O Postigio were all individually engraved with the names of local legends. With recent works in the area, I do hope they will be able to preserve this painstaking act of collective homage. Inside the small traditional-style bar, the atmosphere is friendly and at times pretty lively with cool American rock and bluegrass tracks. At this time of year, of course, everyone is outside, smoking and drinking.

Just across the junction on the opposing corner is Taberna Cantoria in Rua Almeida Garrett, an authentic tapas bar, serving fresh oysters, presunto and cheeses along with a selection of wine. Good quality fare at a reasonable price. And just down the street on the left is the newly-opened SoCust wine-plus-Tapas bar, with a more contemporary rustic feel, wood panels and wine boxes as décor. Down another few yards on the right-hand side is the Matrix Club, a cocktail bar and club catering for a hip young, mostly Portuguese, crowd.

For truly great cocktails, one must head over to The Old Town, which is located just off the main street in the Convent square, and does a first-rate Pop-Up Tapas menu that appeals to a smart early cocktail set as well as younger customers later on. Their Negronis are to die for, served over a large slow melting ice cube.

Further downtown, in the walking and shopping street, Rua 5 de Outubro, at number 45 is Toca da Zorra, a premier craft beer destination showcasing Portuguese artisanal brews such as Marafada, which can be paired with a tapas offering that celebrates Portugal’s rich culinary heritage alongside international favourites. This is a cool and intimate spot, which also acts as a small art gallery, featuring the work of artists from the Algarve and, to add to its appeal, live and DJ music events are staged. This is a proper little gem.

Around the corner and opposite Cleopatra Kebab is Taberna dos Frades, a relaxed traditional bar with good nibbles and a selection of national and international gins to choose from. Further down, heading towards Modelo, next door to the Rusty Wrench on Rua de Nossa Sra. da Piedade, is  Bar Marroquia, a late-night spot, with a Moroccan theme, low seating and hookah pipes. There’s a cosy atmosphere inside with a pool table.

Other venues that have pool tables include the football-focused Bar 28 on Rua Primeiro de Dezembro 28, which is located close to the market and opposite the post office. This is the perfect place to watch matches – it boasts a large projection screen, and TVs are dotted around the bar. The drinks are keenly priced, with an extended ‘happy hour’,  and if cocktails are your thing, there’s a range of spirit brands to choose from.

Bafo de Baco (which translates as the Breath of Bacchus) is located at the top of the Avenida.). It’s the live music venue in Loulé, with a well-stocked bar, a late license and a pool table. Ever since opening its door in 1992, Bafo has been a consistent platform, mainly for Portuguese rock bands and the odd tribute acts. The walls are lined with small, framed posters of all the bands that have played there over the years. The place reminds me a bit of the pubs and venues in Camden Town and has become a generational go-to joint in the area.

For a quiet and traditional town, Loulé has a somewhat hidden bar scene and plays host to larger scale events that attracts visitors from all over the world. The bars are a far cry from the rowdy watering holes found elsewhere in the Algarve; they are frequented in the main by locals, who appreciate the convivial atmosphere and reasonable prices. Sure, there are some who find Irish pubs and the mass of fellow holidaymakers a draw in Vilamoura or Albufeira. But if you are a resident or even just visiting, check out the discreet drinking and tapas spots dotted around Loulé. You will not be disappointed.

Words: Ben Austin